Hallelujah Hallstatt

Instead of heading back to Munich with Lillie after our day trip to Salzburg I decided to jump in a car with some friends who were embarking on a road trip through Austria. They had no place to stay that night and wanted to find somewhere in Salzburg. This was proving to be a lot more difficult than expected. While waiting near the river for our fresh waffles to be cooked to perfection a cute local girl started chatting with us, informing us of the Opera in town, her explanation as to why we were having trouble finding a room. Well crap.We watched the sunset and then made our way to the car.

We found a room in some random town and started driving. On our way there we passed a huge congregation of people eating and drinking, listening to music and having a grand old time. Of course we had to stop and check it out for ourselves. Still have no idea what they were celebrating, but we ate and drank and celebrated along with them until it was time to get back on the road.

We spent the afternoon out on a quaint little boat having good conversation and enjoying the fact that we were lucky enough to be here. The landscape was breathtaking. One of the most surreal places I've seen. The main street was lined with little touristy shops and restaurants. I wish I could have had more than an afternoon here, it would have been ideal to explore the surrounding area and get a better feel for the place, but time is time and I had a train to catch to get back to all of my things I left at the train station in Munich.

We did stumble upon the cemetery there. Let me tell you, the view was insane and the graveyard absolutely beautiful and peaceful. Next to parks, cemeteries are one of my absolute favorite things to visit while at a new place. They have so much character, history, and beauty - as morbid as it sounds.

Perfection in Porto

Porto, Portugal 

Not gonna lie, Lisbon didn't leave the BEST impression on me. It was a fun place to party and be a "backpacker" - but it didn't do much for me. It seemed dirty, which can be typical of a lot of capital cities in a country. While I was in Italy my little old Italian friend Candido recommended I go there, and since I had to be in Madrid in a few days I figured I might as well check it out. I decided to go the Couchsurfing route which really defined my experience in Porto. My host, Gustavo, was one of the kindest people I met throughout my travels. He picked me up at the train station and after he set me up with a bus pass we went grocery shopping together. Exploring supermarkets in different countries is SO. MUCH. FUN. There were salted codfish staked in large crates and fruits I have never seen before. I grabbed a few things I could snack on and we split stuff for a simple breakfast of toast and cheese in the morning. It was late by the time we got back to his place so we said our goodnights and I crashed comfortably on the couch.

Gustavo set me off on the right bus in the morning and I ended up near The Porto Cathedral around 7am. He had to be at work early which was fine because I was quite happy to enjoy a quiet morning in Porto. I wandered around the Cathedral and made my way towards one of Porto's 5 bridges, Ponte Luis I. This bridge had amazing views. I explored the area surrounding a few of the bridges, wandering through small stone streets lined with worn down houses. I ran into a dead-end and a man kindly redirected me through a cemetery. This was the first of many graveyards I wandered. There is something about them that I am obsessed with. Could be considered morbid, but walking around a local cemetery shows you a different side of a town or city. Finding the oldest gravestone, imagining people's lives and what they left behind. I'll post a cemetery blog soon, stay posted!

Ponte D. Luis I - Porto, Portugal

The picture above was taken from Ponte do Infante. The first day I spent wandering around the center and the area surrounding it, no real itinerary. Just enjoying. So many things to just enjoy in Porto. Granted, I could have gone on countless Port Wine distillery tours and entered numerous museums and displays. I took a more laid back route. I met up with Gustavo after he got of work, we had a drink and he took me to a park, Jardins do Palacio de Cristal do Porto, where Peacocks roam free and the ponds have lillie pads. Parks and cemeteries. That's where the real fun is at ;) 

Olives, bread, and oil were always on my table. I craved it! It was so cheap, which was the most important part. And so fun to eat. 

The second day in Porto I took about a 20 minute bus ride to the beach, where I hung out at a park across the street. I remember posting up in an area that I specifically picked out, it felt like a good place to be. I had 4 euros on my person and not much more in my bank account. I had an apple and an orange for lunch and used my travel towel as a picnic blanket. I watched the birds fly and the little boys play soccer with their dads. I was a park nomad for a day, it took me that long to explore it. Okay, I may have taken a nap or two. Doing absolutely nothing on the other side of the world when it feels like there is everything to do is so peaceful. Try it. 

For dinner we met up with a friend of Gustavo's at a shopping mall who was studying in the food court area. This was wonderful, because there were loads of cheap options and it was SO FUN choosing. I ended up trying the Francesinha from a Portuguese fast food restaurant. How authentic ; ) There is ham inside there, and it is smothered with a gravy like tomatoey sauce and cheese. YUM.

Gustavo, me, and his friend - who's name I have forgotten :(
While Walking along the river we asked a man to take a photo of us. The boys ended up talking to this man the whole walk back, about 20 minutes. Gustavo laughed as he explained how friendly people are, they talk to strangers like they are their best friends. I listened to the conversation, which made no sense to me - but I could sense how comfortable and light and happy they all seemed. Gustavo and his friend were genuinely interested in this man and his life. They explained most of the conversation to me, thankfully. What would I do without my Couchsurfing buddies? He was talking about the history of the fisherman, and how the area has changed and how it had stayed the same. It is so beautiful, hearing about a place from someone who knows and loves it. 

Homes along the river - Porto, Portugal

So, in summation Porto is absolutely perfect. I wish I had more time there, but that's always the case.

*I just titled this blog after writing it. I am starting to feel a bit ridiculous with my titles, like a Dr. Seuss wannabe. 

Candid with Candido

While workingaway in Montefegatesi I had the opportunity to meet whom I like to consider my soul-mate. That might be taking it a little to far. Whatever. There were so many "best" things about living in the village and working for such an amazing family, but mainly I enjoyed all the free time available to me while I wasn't watching the kids. The girls who were here before me made it a priority to take me over to some mysterious Italian man's home to play some card game. When we finally made it over there, I fell in love as soon as I walked through the door. His house was adorned in photographs, memories, old records, and classical books. I took a look around and realized this place looks like I could be living here.

Candido was an elderly man, in his 70s or 80s, who clearly enjoyed the company of the American visitors that frequented the village. He was as grumpy as he was sweet, which I loved about him. We opened a bottle of wine, cut up some cheese and I took a seat in his comfortable living room facing a set of sliding doors with a view of the green, lush Tuscan mountains. He shared his photography with me, most of which made up the decor in his home. We looked through old records and I shared my obsession with the sixties, to which Candido boasted about his presence at Woodstock in 69. He played The Beatles for me, and from that point on it was pretty obvious this was the coolest man ever.

I don't remember how many times I hung out with Candido, but throughout that time I learned not only a load of things about him but many things about the history of the village as well. He taught photography at a school in NY and claims to know several famous film makers and actors, including Robert De Niro and Martin Scorsese. Robert was the one who convinced Candido to move to NY, and I've heard stories of the pair of them practicing for De Niro's role in Taxi Driver.

His father was born in Montefegatesi, and his father before that. During WWII his father was a partisan in the Italian resistance to the war. In the midst of the war his father returned to their family home in the village to hide. Nazi soldiers came knocking on their door, telling them that unless their father surrendered - they would all be killed. Hiding in the basement, his father heard the threats and gave him self up, later to be shot in the village square in front of family and friends. His friend, Christopher King, liked the story and decided to shoot a short film in the village based off it. One night we settled down with our standard glass of wine and assortment of cheese and watched it. I've been racking my brain for the last 5 minutes and can not remember what the name of it was. It was fun to watch because it was filmed throughout the village and in Candido's current home.

I learned that the root word of Montefegatesi - fegato, means "liver".  and how Montefegatesi was named after the deep red color of the rocks in the area.

I almost didn't see Candido before I left. I had attempted visiting him a few times and he was never home. The morning of my departure I somehow found 5 minutes to walk to his humble abode prepared to burst into tears if he wasn't there. I didn't even have enough time to sit down, but I made sure to give him the biggest hug I could manage. I thanked him so much for letting me hang out with him, I wanted to make sure he knew how big of an impacted he made on me. Before I left he thanked me for, "being alive, and being myself."

Sometimes the people you'll meet make up a lot of the experiences you have, especially while traveling the world. When you make connections that are undeniably deep and beyond explanation it makes you feel like a bigger part of the world. Making an impact on someone is a way of putting your footprint in the sand. 

In the film he showed us, they are casually rolling gnocci in the kitchen. I begged Candido to teach me how and arranged for a few of us workawayers to make dinner together. Definitely one of my favorite memories, and something free to take home :) I was well drunk by the time the serious gnocci production started, so that part I have had some trouble recreating. I am making progress though. The sauce on the other hand... oh I make a mean sauce. 

Listen here, Lisboa

Lisbon, Portugal

Decided to travel to Portugal instead of spending more time in Italy. Mike and I spent a few days in Lisbon, roaming the streets while trying to stay cool during the day and drinking as much wine at night while weaving in and out of the streets of Bairro Alto. The hostel we were staying at, Equity Point, had no air conditioning. The room was pretty hot, not gonna lie. We made it work though. Sleeping outside on a couch tucked away in a corner on the patio made for a refreshing first night. The other few nights were survived by sleeping in my underwear, with no covers. We got lucky enough to not have any roommates (a huge feat, if you ask me) - or else the whole underwear thing could have been an issue. 

View from the hostel - Lisbon, Portugal

Bairro Alto - Lisbon, Portugal

Ate some of the most amazing food here - the most memorable being a prosciutto and melon salad with tomatoes and a big heaping scoop of LEMON GELATO in the middle. I'm drooling just thinking about it. It seemed like there were loads of fresh fruit smoothie and juice places, which made my heart smile. Trying the codfish while here is a necessity. It is a cultural dish, and it doesn't disappoint - especially for the seafood lovers. While walking along the Douro River in Porto I met a fisherman that told me all about Porto, back in the day. You can read about it here. Open up that Trip Advisor app and find out where you can get a decent codfish, it will be worth it!  

It's really popular to ride the Tram 28 around the city, which means it is also crowded and apparently everyone gets pick-pocketed. It was fun nonetheless, especially since it was too hot to walk around.  I absolutely loved the various ceramic tiles that you can find on almost every building and in every souvenir shop. They were all so colorful and the patterns were so fun - they really gave the city a lot of personality. They have a ceramic museum there, if you are into that type of thing.

The Bairro Alto at night is so. much. fun. This restaurant we made a pit-stop at for sangria (pretty much the only reason we every had to make a pit-stop) set a bunch of tables up on the street outside their establishment. It was a fun environment, with everyone bunched up drinking and eating - although a few times I nearly knocked over any drinks within a 3 foot radius. Everyone seemed to be very understanding of the near misses. These inclined streets are littered with bars selling cheap, cheap alcohol and delicious tapas.  There are a surplus of men offering to sell you things you will never need - sunglasses at night, drugs, mickey mouse ears; the usual. 

We ended up by Ponte 25 de Abril - A bridge that looks strikingly similar to the beloved Golden Gate Bridge. Come to find out, they were designed by the same person. Someone must have gotten lazy. There were restaurants along the waterside - all which proved to be touristy, without much to offer. We ate here anyways because we had a nice three mile walk back to the hostel ahead of us. Why we decided to walk, I don't quite remember. 

I usually prefer walking, even if there is a quick metro stop that will get me somewhere in the blink of an eye - it's ugly underground. I can't see things the same way on a crowded bus or with my nose pressed up against the window of a train. I would much rather be out in the open, walking the streets, breathing in the air. I lost weight while traveling around Europe, contrary to what I imagined would happen. I didn't have enough money to eat any more than I needed and I was walking EVERYWHERE. 

A night in Bologna

Literally the only photo I took in Bologna, Italy

It's funny how things work out. The year leading up to my trip, I planned on spending the vast majority of my time in Italy. Out of my three months traveling around Europe I was there about 3 weeks and only saw Cinque Terre, Florence, Bagni di Lucca, and one night in Bologna (only because I decided to fly out early and go to Portugal).

I didn't see anywhere near as much of Italy as I would of liked, but that's the way it worked out. My wallet got pick pocketed in Florence, so I had no money to get to Rome, and no time to get to Naples or Venice. I guess I'll just have to go back, which I think I can deal with :) I'm happy with the experience I had nonetheless.

I made a last minute decision to spend the 4th of July in Lisbon, Portugal with my friend Mike. My flight departed from Bologna at 6am so it was necessary for me to get there the night before. This is where Couchsurfing saved my life.

Okay, I would have managed without it but it really made my life so much easier. Instead of checking into a hostel just to check out a few hours later felt pointless. I started sending out requests on Facebook and found an angel by the name of Alex to let me crash at his place.

He picked me up from the train station and took me to a cheap bar to eat and then walked me around Bologna. He pointed out everything and told little stories and quick histories. I also took one photo the entire time. I was apparently too busy looking and listening to worry about photos. 

We went to a small outside party, next to a pool with a DJ and loads of people just hanging out in the grass. A group of his friends met up with us, all of them incredibly nice and happy to speak in their best broken English to make me feel included. We bar hopped around for a little while, made jokes about southern American accents and talked about stereotypes of each of our cultures.

IT'S NOT A SILLY QUESTION IF YOU CAN'T ANSWER IT

Make it a point to meet locals, it's easy. Just chat with the people that are servicing you while you are eating or buying souvenirs or asking for directions. Or if you have a question about something - NEVER BE AFRAID TO ASK IT. Questions are usually the quickest way to get you to an answer, you just gotta know what you're looking for :)

Sharing organic interactions like this with people while traveling is one of my absolute FAVORITE experiences. It teaches you so much about perspective, yours as well as other's from around the world. 

I have a new understanding of America, and being American. I especially have a new desire to explore my own country more, one day. It's interesting, the things you learn unexpectedly. You gotta love life's little lessons. 

Anyways. Angel Alex gave me a lift to the airport that morning, taking loads of public transport stress off my shoulders. We still keep in touch and I hope one day we will be able to connect again!

So, a little bit of risk is all it cost me for new friends, a good story, and memories that I'll never forget. Couchsurfing isn't something that should be taken lightly, but at the same time you really just need to go for it. I'll be posting a blog eventually about being smart on Couchsurfing and how not to get hacked up :) stay posted!

Firenze Frenzy

Nicola & I - Florence, Italy

Ah, Florence. How I wish I had more time with you. Two days was nowhere near enough. 

One of my favorite things about Italy (other than the laundry that's always strung like ornaments across peoples homes) is how easily accessible fresh, mouthwatering sandwiches are. There are so many good places to eat scattered throughout the adorable little streets of this place that it's hard to not find something delicious everywhere you go.

We visited the Bardini Gardens instead of going to the more popular, Boboli. The Bardini Gardens have just recently been open to the public, so I thought it would be cool to check it out. Definitely go to both if you have time, I can never get enough of gardens or parks while I am traveling. It was an incredible day, paired with the unreal panoramic view of Florence from the balcony and strolling through the garden itself easily made this a highlight of Florence.

Neptune's Butt - Piazza della Signoria, Florence, Italy

While planning for Florence I had intended on Couchsurfing with a fellow named Niccoló. I ended up traveling with Nicola (hehe), who was working with me in Montefegatesi. He didn't have room for us both, but we still decided to hang out! 

It's a funny thing, waiting to meet someone you don't know in a foreign country when all you've ever seen is an image of them online. From afar I thought I spotted him, simply because there was a guy by himself that seemed to be looking for someone. I goofily tried waving to this man. Thankfully my attempt went unnoticed because not long after the guy's friend (who he was supposedly looking for) showed up and they walked off. 

A few minutes later Niccolò came into view. He took us to his favorite local bar, Eby's. It was obvious he had frequented this place a lot, Eby seemed to know him quite well. We had a few drinks, got hooked up with a few specialty shots and made our way to Niccolò's where he made us a delicious dinner. You can not ever go wrong with home cooked meals in Italy, especially when followed by affogatto (ice cream topped with espresso) - which this particular dinner happened to include.

Niccolò, being the gentleman he is, walked us back to our hotel. I was also slightly intoxicated at this point, so I was thankful that he humored me as I tried to learn Italian by pointing to words and guessing what they meant. Surprisingly I wasn't too bad and Niccolò helped me learn some new vocabulary. 

The next day was a holiday, which we had no idea about until arriving in Florence. It was St. Giovanni's or something, and as we were walking up to visit the Duomo there was a procession leading into the church with music and banners and guys all dressed up. Needless to say, I got excited. I pulled my phone out of my wallet and was simultaneously snapping shots with both my phone and camera. We walked into the church and quickly walked back out, it was very crowded and a ceremony was about to start. I wanted to go to the top of the tower and as I went to grab a few euros I realized my wallet was gone. The only logical explanation is that it got pick pocketed after I pulled my phone out of my purse, because I never zipped it back up.

The picture of the Duomo above was taken moments before my wallet was stolen. No pictures can do this thing justice. To the right is a photo of a mask shop I stumbled into while walking around. I managed to save a postcard like business card, which is the only reason I remember it is called Alice Masks. The man at the desk was diligently working away at masks, all of which had so much character.

REACT HAPPIER

Moral of the story: It CAN happen to you, all those horror stories about having things stolen or lost while traveling abroad. BUT IT DOESN'T HAVE TO BE A HORROR STORY. There are tips and tricks to avoid this, or at least worsen the blow. I'll write a post about this eventually :)

Luckily, I had Nicola with me and she covered me till we got back home. Luckily, I had absolutely no expenses while workingaway so not having access to my money until by debit card arrived wasn't that big of a deal. I could survive, that's all that mattered. LUCKILY, I was able to maintain a positive attitude and stay calm while sorting my situation out - that's the key to avoiding horror stories. Remember, YOU'RE the one writing the story - it could turn out however you want, really. It's all about your reaction. Things aren't always going to go as planned, especially while traveling. That's why it's important to take it as it comes, and appreciate it for all that it is. 

So next time you get lost or something gets stolen - react a bit happier. It will make a difference.

Simple Exchanges

Montefegatesi, Bagni di Lucca - Italy

When I found out my working opportunity over the summer fell through knew I had to get creative. Nothing would stop me from getting on that plane, especially not having enough money.

Workaway.info is a database of people and families around the world who are willing to exchange work for accommodation. There is something for everyone on workaway... from gardening to teaching English, nannying or helping with a bed and breakfast. 

I spent a good few weeks sending out inquiry emails, all very short notice considering my circumstances. It was hard for me to set something in stone for my first few weeks in Italy, but shortly before I left it all came together. It definitely helps to start planning in advance if this is the type of thing you are interested in. A lot of the ideal hosts book up their workawayers quickly. Most tend to prefer long term stays, at least a few weeks at a time. 

An Italian-English family hosted me in their Tuscan village with a total of 143 permanent residents. Montefegatesi, as the highest village in Bagni do Lucca, is situated at the top of a hill and overlooks magnificent Tuscan mountains. I watched over two kids (six & eight), 5 hours a day 5 days a week. In exchange they set me up in an small apartment they owned in the village and stocked my fridge. It was the exact thing I needed. My own, beautiful space. 

There were two other workawayers being hosted while I was there. A girl from New Zealand and one from Germany. It was fun being able to connect with people all around the world for those few weeks. They definitely made lasting impacts on me.

In the evenings the other workawayers and I would make dinner together, drink wine at the Dante monument at the tippity top of the mountain, and play games and share stories with old locals. I learned so much about the history of the village by talking to people. Hearing personal stories. One of my favorites comes from my soulmate Candido. I'll write him his own separate post soon. He is that special. 

We were able to travel on the days we weren't working and planned a trip to Florence! Also deserving of it's own blog post. 

I loved this experience. It gives me the warmest feeling when I think back to the time that I spent there. I felt so comfortable and at home from the beginning. I was able to really submerge myself into what I was doing, not thinking about things back home. No stress. I loved waking up in the morning to tend the garden in the crisp, mountainous air. 

Above is the view from the top floor or my apartment, which was at the very top of the village. You can see the surrounding villages tucked away into the hills if you look close enough. The other picture is from a community camping even that family took me too. It was quite cold outside, despite it being summer - so we indulged in mulled wine (my first time, ever!) and watched the daring walk across fire. 

DIG DEEPER AND GET DIRTIER

If you have the time to do plan something  like this into your adventure. DO IT. Whether you do it for a week or for six. Don't pull a Tiffany the Tourist. Don't follow your free city map to all the main attractions. Don't eat at that restaurant right on the beach. Dig a little deeper and get a little dirtier. It is much more meaningful and exhilarating to be challenged while outside of your comfort zone, trust me. You'll get more out of your experience.

This extends beyond just traveling. In all aspects of your life, don't settle. Don't graze over the surface effortlessly, letting life pass you by. Life happens in the challenges, when you try a little harder and put more of yourself out there. 

With that being said, sometimes the "leave it all at home" approach to traveling doesn't suit everyone. If you have been dying to visit the Eiffel Tower, you wait in that line for a few hours to get to the top. I was just as happy to sit underneath it and drink a bottle of wine to myself ;) My advice to you touristy types: don't try to do it all. You can't, and you will wear yourself out trying. Prioritize and mix things up! Leave space in your plans to be flexible, it will make your trip a lot more enjoyable. 

Is this real life?

Manarola, Cinque Terre - Italy

Traveling abroad for the first time can be difficult based solely on the fact that you are time warping across the country. After flying for 16 hours and finally arriving in Nice, France I still had a good 6 hours on trains to get to where I needed to be in Italy. I was thrilled for my first train experience. I knew exactly what to do and where to be and when to be there and BAM! Train station closed due to maintenance: Challenge Accepted. I found my way to a bus and a lovely English couple who led me in the direction of another train station. I then utilized the help of a study abroad student walking to the station, who actually bought my ticket for me and set me off on the right train. After a few sketchy connections, thinking the train was going backwards, and 6 more hours of traveling I finally arrived in Cornigila (the village with the highest altitude)   and had to walk up THESE...

Corniglia, Cinque Terre - Italy

Luckily, my new friend Mike who I was meeting up with had a bottle of wine and sandwich waiting for me off of the train. We hiked our way up these steps, cracked open the bottle of wine and ascended even higher to the roof of our lovely room rented off of Airbnb. By this time it was nearly midnight and after 24+ hours of traveling and a half bottle of vino, I was spent. 

I couldn't have picked a better place to start off my journey! I am sure most of you have seen the images of these colorful and vibrant Italian coastal villages, and probably had similar daydreams to me. Let me tell you, waking up that morning felt like magic. I woke up exhilarated, stepped out on the balcony and breathed in the fresh Italian air. A little old woman peaked her head out of her vibrant yellow shutters and I smiled while taking the chance to practice my Italian by muttering a quick, "Buon Giorno". I didn't want to seem like I was trying TOO hard.   

Cinque Terre translates to Five Lands. All of these quaint little villages are nestled together along the west coast of Italy separated by amazing hiking trails, gardens, and incredible views. Each has something a little bit different to offer so if you go, make sure you explore all of them. There were tons of places to take a nice, cool dip along the coast. We settled for a rocky area with a cave off to the left that we explored. The hiking is really what sold me on this place. I can't even begin to explain it, it's unreal. 

We hiked and ate as much as we could, wandering throughout the villages in-between. We were booth supposed to leave on a Monday, but one of the trains was delayed so we would both miss our connecting trains. Instead we settled down at the closest bar to the train station and started drinking, naturally. That night ended in me losing my phone and a whole compression pack of clothes, and a pair of boots (which I didn't even realize until I found them). Yes, after searching the next morning for a few hours - trying to retrace our steps - we found my boots underneath a table outside a bar with my phone tucked neatly into them. The bar had my sack of clothes. Lucky is an understatement. 

You can not go without eating melon and prosciutto - it is the perfect combination for those of you start drooling at the though of anything sweet and salty. I used to hate tomatoes, literally hate. But since I knew I was coming to Italy I trained these taste buds of mine to sack up. I stopped asking to have them taken out of things and gradually worked my way up to ordering plates of them while traveling.   

I bought chickpea flat-bread from a little side shop in one of the villages. Apparently it is a local specialty. It was delicious! If you find it, give it a try :)