Kyoto

Fushimi Inari was an obvious first stop considering the little amount of time I had to spend in this fantastic city. So much to do, there was no way I was going to be able to see as much of it as I wanted. This place, however, I was happy to spend hours carelessly wandering and taking detours to see every torri gate and every fox I could feast my eyes on.

I love being able to take my time somewhere. Traveling alone is nice for that reason. I don't ever feel like I am inconveniencing someone. I can take a 10 different pictures of the same thing until I get the right shot. I can buy a bag of Japanese cracker treats and snuggle into a corner of shrines and eat until my hearts content. When posed with the question of following the path or taking a bit of the detour, I usually choose the latter.

I managed to get away from the majority of the masses of tourists during my hike around the top of Mount Inari.  I cut away from the path here and there, seeing what trouble I could get into. Towards the point where I was about to make a full loop there was a sign advertising an alternative exit which lead to another temple. It was easy to decide which way to go. There wasn't a soul on this path. The only people I encountered were locals. A lovely little woman who I had a very limited conversation with about her cats and a man riding his motorbike. Other than that, it was me and the wild wilderness.  I found a beautiful shrine which spent a bit of time at.

The path led me to Tofukuji Temple. I wandered the grounds for a bit before deciding I was starving and heading to an area of town where I knew I could get delicious sushi and pop over to a market/shopping area I was itching to visit. One really wonderful thing about this trip was that I actually had money to do things like EAT. When I was in Europe last summer I was on a very, very limited budget so I wasn't able to indulge myself eating mass amounts of food and treats - like I did at conveyer belt sushi. It was packed to the brim and I had to wait a bit to get a seat, but it was well worth it. Somewhere on the internet told me this is the place to eat, and they were right. I could have easily sat in there for hours gorging myself with loads of different kinds of sushi. You can read more about it here.

After sushi I made my way around the numerous shopping areas that were near the restaurant, Teramachi, Shin Kyogoku and the Nishiki Market. I was searching for a silk kimono style robe, it was one of the only things I really wanted to take home with me. I was happy to find loads and it didn't take me long to decide on one. I was trying to kill time, waiting for my lovely couchsurfing host, Tara, to get off of work. After getting my fill of shopping I took a look at a map and found a park/temple up the road a ways. I spent an hour or so here drinking blood orange juice, people watching, and listening to a man play his guitar. I met up with Tara and after chatting and having a shower she took m down to the river to shoe me around and have a few drinks. There was a light up festival type thing going on, the river was lined with loads of lanterns and silly drunk Japanese youth who were climbing down into the water making fools of themselves. It was a blast to watch them get in trouble and then get right back in the water.

The next morning I headed to the Arashiyama area of Kyoto. I asked Tara what there was to do other that visit temples and she sent me here, I was so thankful. She said something about a bamboo forest... which I don't think I ever found - but I did find loads of other cool things. I had the most amazing experience walking around a park right on the river. It was sprinkling all morning and at one point it started absolutely pouring rain. I just so happened to be at the highest point of the park overlooking a view that was just unreal. After I got my fill of the park I decided I wanted to play with monkeys. There was an extensive hike up to one of the top of the mountains to reach the "Monkey Park" where there were monkeys of all shapes and sizes wandering freely. At one point I was caught in the path of a monkey brawl. One monkey was chasing another making this horrible screeching noise. Then, his monkey friends came and had his back. I was a bit scared, not gonna lie. They sounded like they were actually having a heated argument.

Surfing Through Japan

I arrived in the evening on Friday and spent the whole first half of my evening chatting with Taka, my host. He is about 50 years old and has spent a lot of time traveling and a lot of time hosting surfers. I chose him for a multitude of reasons. He had loads of reviews, which is always the first thing I look for. A person with 77 reviews is the type of person you want to surf with. To me, that means they know what surfing is all about. They know what it means to be a good host. And a good host differs depending on who your talking to. Someone who wants a free place to stay, period - those people are missing out. It is so much more than that. I had ample money to spend at cheap hostels this time around, which differed a lot from my travels in Europe last summer. Still, couchsurfing was the first place I went when it came to looking for accommodation.

Having the chance to connect with locals in the city that you are visiting can completely change your perspective on a place. You get more than a few pictures in front of this temple and that castle. Taka (after explaining the rules of his home) shared some awesome conversation. We talked about everything. Japanese culture, my weight loss, education, the environment, Korean culture, cheese, fat Americans with guns. You name it.

One of the main conversations I remember having was about the way the majority of the Japanese population feel about Americas after, you know, we dropped an atomic bomb in their country. He said that, because America didn't just deplete the Japanese of their resources and leave them high and dry, they respect us in a sense? We helped them build back up their economy in a way that, obviously, still suited us. Exporting things from Japan to America helped fuel their economy, and they appreciated the fact that we gave them the opportunity to do so. In conclusion, Taka tells me the Japanese don't hold grudges. The past is the past and we have all moved on.

I'll be the first to admit that I am a bit of an uncultured American, like we tend to be. This has changed drastically since I have started traveling and meeting people from around the world, thankfully. Still, my extent of "history" doesn't go far beyond America's development. I only remember taking half a semester of world history in high school. HALF a semester of WORLD history. This baffles me. Compared to the world, America is just a speck on the timeline. Anyways, I never thought about what the Japanese might think of Americans after the war. Other than knowing about Hiroshima and Pearl Harbor, I don't know much about it to begin with. 

My second night staying with him I was given a few options. He offered to cook me a traditional meal, take me out to a cheap (but very good) sushi meal, or to go downtown and spend a little bit more money on a nice sushi meal/tempura spot. I chose to have him cook for me. How many times in my life and I going to be able to experience something like that? I had a hard time deciding, because I 9.can never make a decision to save my life... but I think I did well this time. 

Taka opened my mind up to a lot about Japanese culture. He taught me to always eat all of my food, which was no problem for me. He taught me to say Itadakimasu before my meal, signifying that I am grateful for the food that nature has provided me with - and gochisosama deshita after the meal saying something similar, with the thanks of being satisfied. He taught me more than just the sayings, however. It is important in Japanese culture to appreciate the food you are given, and especially appreciative for everyone and everything involved in the process. You have to think about where the food came from, who farmed the vegetables? Who caught the fish? Who prepared your meal? And, obviously, nature for giving the opportunity to eat. 

After he served me a delicious meal complete with fish, rice, tofu, and miso soup - he offered up some wine and cheese. REAL cheese, that some of his other surfers brought him from Spain. Words can't begin to express how thankful I was. And then, when I thought it couldn't get any better, he made me an extra special bowl of mochi. I was beside myself with happiness. And dinner was accompanied with wonderful conversation. 

We talked a lot about the culture of couchsurfing, and why he enjoys it so much. He loves sharing things, and he loves the exchange. Sure, he let's people stay at his place and they use his water and his energy and he feeds them - but the reward that he gets is worth so much more than that. He is able to meet people from around the world and learn new things about them and their culture. He is able to share things about the Japanese culture that you can't read in that Lonely Planet book you picked up. Learning through experiences - it's really the only way to do it.

I also surfed with a girl from New Zealand who has been teaching English in a public school in Kyoto. Although much different from my experience with Taka, it was awesome. We had a few drinks by the river and chatted all night. It was interesting to compare the school environments that we worked in, how different the languages were, and just the fact that we had something in common and were close in age was nice. We stalked up on goodies at a convenience store before heading back to her place and drinking more. OH! And, I got to experience a real, live Japanese earthquake. Thankfully it wasn't very serious and no tsunami's ensued. She was an angel and recommended a less "touristy" place I could go in Kyoto - You can only visit so many temples on one trip. I wish I was able to spend more time with her, but luckily I will be back in Japan one day (hopefully soon) - and I have two awesome friends to visit when I get back. And hopefully one to party with in Tokyo.

Land of the Rising Sun

Kinryu Ramen - Dotonbori, Osaka

I'm going to have to post a few different blogs about my summer vacation to Japan. I couldn't possibly fit everything into one without it being massive. Especially considering that between my SLR, GoPro, and iPhone (rip) - I took over 1,000 photos/videos.

However, in summary - my time in Japan has opened up my eyes to a whole different world. Although Korea and Japan are next door neighbors (lucky me) they have so many cultural differences, traditional and modern.

I loved so much about Japan, especially the people. They all seemed so damn COOL. The way they dress especially. I loved the style. There were people rocking wild hair with a grungy look and then there were the ones who look like they just popped out of a comic - big eyes and porcelain skin with cute clothes. The Japanese love cute things, much like the Koreans. The younger crowed seemed to care at lot about their appearance and being original. I saw a huge variety of styles from head to toe - and I definitely spent a lot of my time stopping in almost every single shop in almost every shopping district in Osaka. Whoops. I have plans for a trip to Tokyo, which I am assuming will be similar to Osaka, except amplified.

Osaka, Japan

I was able to couch surf most of my time there, my budget was thankful. A 50something year old Japanese man in Osaka hosted me for a few nights as well as a  girl from New Zealand who's teaching English in Kyoto. Couch surfing is hands down one of my favorite ways to travel. I'll tell you all about it in a separate blog. 

Per typical tourist standards, I didn't do much. I didn't spend all my time visiting every single temple in Kyoto or Nara. I certainly didn't do any museums. I didn't even see the castle in Osaka. However I did eat myself silly and do what I do best, wander. No plans set in stone, those hardly ever work out. No rushing to the next "sight" to see - I did not have enough time to even try. But I saw a few important things and appreciated the time I was able to spend aimlessly exploring these new places. 

I was able to experience a temple stay in Koyasan. I'm actually writing the majority of this blog while listening to the croak of frogs in the garden underneath my window as I lounge in my Kimono style robe planted right in the middle of a Japanese style futon and drinking green tea. Yes, it is as perfect as it sounds.

 In Japan I was reminded what it feels like to really travel. Anxious about figuring out public transportation, waiting for trains, trying new food, hearing a new language, walking to no where in particular. I missed that feeling of being in action. Although I've been in Korea for over a month, It has been much more living that it has been exploring. I think back to my three months backpacking through Europe last year and think to myself, "HOW DID I DO IT?!" After 6 days in Japan I was well spent.

With that being said, I am happy to be home - especially because home is Korea. Which is still, in my eyes, a massive adventure. But being away made me realize how much it already feels like home. I missed Hangul. I missed saying annyeonghaseyo and kamsahmnida. I missed kimchi so much I went and bought A KILO of it when I got home (mainly because I didn't know how to ask for less). I missed my bare apartment and am so excited to fill it with pictures and memorabilia from Japan. I am so comfortable here. 

Traveling alone and having time to reflect on the craziness that has ensued since I moved to Korea was well needed. Every since I've been here, I have been on the go. Exploring here, eating this, meeting new people and adjusting to the culture.  It has put a lot of "life" things in perspective. I was able to take a step back and look at how lucky I am. My dreams are coming true on an (almost) daily basis. I have had so many opportunities and experienced so many different things in the past few years of my life. I am excited about the direction I am heading and all the adventures that are to come. I am so thankful for my ability to have a positive, no fear attitude when it comes to most things. So many doors are open and available to me - and I'm gonna keep on opening them.