DPRK - from an American Imperialists Point of View

(If you haven't read my post about why I decided to visit North Korea, you can read it here.)


Well, I made it. I made it out of North Korea, with absolutely no temptation to steal anything from the restricted floor of the Yangakdo Hotel. I made it out with no regrets. With a drastically changed perspective on the country that has been looming overhead, almost literally. It's been a consistent curiosity of mine while living in South Korea. How has the separation affected the culture, the people? How does the North view the South? What's education like? How accurately is western media portraying this mysterious country? These are all questions that I pondered before visiting the DPRK. I can't say I've fully answered them all, but I do know that I left the country with a lot more unanswered questions than when I first arrived. This is being written many months post trip, so I've had a lot of time to reflect and think about the experience. I've probably been putting off writing this because it has been so hard to figure out what I want to say. Now that I've had the chance to be more vocal with people about it, I've been able to narrow down my ramblings to topics that I've found I talk about the most.

**Throughout this blog I may speak in absolutes (ex. North Koreans hate America). Please remember that these are just generalizations, as a person and their ideals are not defined by where they happen to have citizenship. 

differences

One of the things that propelled me to travel to the north was so that I could see how the division affected the culture and the people. Aside from the obvious and expected propaganda and the fact that the North is poor and the South is not, there were a couple differences that really stood out to me. 

My use of the language did not prove as useful as I was hoping. North Koreans speak much more formally and have adopted no English words. "Konglish" does not exist here, and the honorifics are much different. They also want to talk about really different things. My first conversation in Korean was with one of my North Korea tour guides, who was really dang excited to have a chance to talk to an American in Korean, let me tell you. I failed, miserably. I haven't had many conversations in Korean outside of a restaurant or taxi, so the personal questions he was asking were not only hard for me to understand, but hard to answer. 

North Koreans look a little different. They are much more tan, probably because they do more manual labor and don't have access to sun creams. But, just because sun cream might not be readily available, the woman are still quite concerned with covering up their skin while they are outside to avoid the sun. Oh, and they seem much smaller. A tour guide asked, as we were surrounded by hundreds of children at Kim Il Sung's birthplace, how old I thought these kids were. I guessed about 7 or 8. When he told me they were between 10 and 12, I was shocked. They were so skinny - not the typical Korean thinness, but a more malnourished kind of skinny. I told him they also acted younger, and had more of an innocence about them. They aren't glued to their phones and the wonder in their eyes as a group of foreigners climbs through them and their classmates was priceless. 

The buildings in Pyongyang were much more colorful than the autonomous grey scale feeling of a typical city in South Korea.  One of the things I noticed was that there were long phrases or names of places above a lot of the buildings, especially in comparison to what I'm used to in the South. It was abnormal to see so many syllables plastered above these buildings. I wish my Korean were better, so I could tell you more about what it says over the building. All I can recognize are Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il. If anyone is reading this and knows what it says above the building pictured below, comment and let me know!

similarities

The presence of Confucian ideals is seemingly just as present in North Korean culture as it is in the South. A form of class structure exists in both, obviously in a much stronger sense in the North where the country is divided into workers, farmers, and intellects. In the South, there are various Confucian ideals that make it hard for someone who is in a lower economic class to break out of their pay scale. In order to make more money, you need to have higher test scores. In order to have higher test scores, you have to have money to pay for tutors and college. People get jobs based on who they know. Family name and reputation is often more important than, well anything really - and it's a vicious cycle. 

North and South Koreans both work really hard - to no avail. They spend all their lives working to (usually) never reap the benefits of their efforts. South Koreans are luckier in this aspect, as they have more freedom to make their own choices. Although, societal pressure in the South can often feel constricting and prevents people from really doing what they dream, opting to do what their family thinks is best instead. 

Education in both countries have similarities. Children spend their young lives focusing on what someone tells them they are supposed to be when they are older. Very high stakes are placed on tests and children are ranked in their classes, which are more often than not displayed publicly in the school. In the science and technology focused middle school that we visited outside of Pyongyang, photos were even placed above the rankings, the lowest and highest students clear for everyone to see. Because education is such a huge focus, teachers are well regarded positions in both countries. 

                 

interactions

I was pleasantly surprised at how many organic interactions I was able to have with the general population. I approached people in the metro stations, military personal, school children, and staff at the places we were visiting and tried my best to speak with them. I was often a little too shy slash worried about how these people would react to me trying to talk to them. Once I realized they were all really nice (to my face), I was able to venture out a little more. 

I was able to get to know my tour guides quite well, and shared quite a few alcoholic beverages with them. I convinced Mr. Kim, my favorite guide, to ride a roller coaster with me at the fun fair. On our last night I witnessed him drunk and bowling with all of us in a wife beater, slurring cuss words and flexing his muscles. I always sat in the front of the tour bus, which meant I got to overhear some of Mr. Kim's conversations. Most of the Korean I couldn't understand, but I noticed him asking our Australian tour guide a lot of questions about the people on the tour and things outside of North Korea. Later, I found out that Mr. Kim actually has full access to the internet. It makes me wonder how aware he is. Does he think the outside world is crazy, like we think North Korea is crazy?

My favorite interaction was definitely unexpected. At the DMZ we were given a tour by this middle-aged military man. He didn't look friendly at all and my Australian tour guide mentioned that he was a bit of a sour-patch. He probably didn't use the word sour-patch, though.  This man was impressed when I said, "Can we take a picture together?" In Korean, even though he tried not to show it. He looked right past me and at my tour guide, his comrade, and asked how I know Korean. After my guide explained, he looked at me and nodded his head. We took a quick, very unpleasant photo, and then he got mad because now everyone wanted a photo with him. Afterwards, we had to line up before moving on to the next spot. I naturally wanted to be in the front of the line. As I walk up to where he is standing, he notices me and then I notice him holding back this smile before he says, "You speak Korean well." By the end of the tour I was joking with him about loving to take pictures and drinking too much beer. 


We were able to visit a middle school on our last day. I wasn't surprised that it didn't seem much different from a South Korean school. After introducing myself in front of the class and announcing that I was a teacher, their instructor asked, "What do you teach?" As I replied, "I'm an English teacher" the class let out a chorus of approving"ohhs". After everyone got a chance to introduce themselves their instructor asked me if, since I'm an English teacher, I could help them with their pronunciation. I bet he was picking on me because I had just announced myself as an American who taught in South Korea - double whammy (just kidding, kind of). I started to walk around and see what they were working on. I asked a question, and before anyone could answer, this girl stood up and asked me, "How long have you been in Pyongyang? Have you been to Munsu Water Park? Our Great Leader built such an amazing park for his people and without him..." blah blah blah. All this very creepy, very well spoken but obviously memorized propaganda. This is when I realized why so many North Koreans would be learning how to speak English. With tourism being one of the biggest exports (along with meth-amphetamines and giant statues), of course they want their youth to be educated in all the RIGHT things to say to a western tourist. It makes sense that's the focus and scope of their English curriculum, spouting propaganda. 

Then we were able to have about a 10 minute conversation with a student. I squatted down next to a really sweet girl who told me she wanted to be an English teacher. She also told me I'm very beautiful, so that had me questioning her honesty from the get go. 

• She wants to teach younger students because they memorize things quickly. 
• When I asked her what English speaking country she would most like to visit, she very quickly said that she doesn't want to travel. North Korea is the best country and she doesn't need to visit anywhere else. 
• She asked what made me happy. When I replied, "Being here, right now",  she was confused and said "now?" in Korean. I recognized the Korean word and repeated it back to her. She was surprised I spoke Korean and asked me to speak more. I probably said something about liking kimchi. 
• She's happy when she gets a good score on a test. Which is exactly what my students in the south would say. 
• I asked her is she is stressed and she said yes. She feels like her heart is weak and that she isn't strong enough. 
• She asked me why I don't have a husband or children. I told her that I like to spend my time traveling the world and meeting new people and doing new things, and right now I don't want a husband or children. She was surprised and quickly changed the subject. Maybe they haven't covered the 'world travel' chapter in their text books yet. 

revelations

One of the most important things that I took away from North Korea has to do with my understanding of perception and individual realities. While at the Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum, my perspective was challenged. Imagine sitting in front of a film of atrocities that your country committed, that which are a stark contrast to the history that you (and most of the world) has been taught. People on the tour, at one point, turned and looked at me and asked, "Is this true?" As an English teacher, I have to be clear with my pronoun usage, so let me elaborate. "This" referred to the accusations of things like biowarfare, the violent murder of women and children (which were all depicted by elaborate scenes throughout the museum), and torture of North Korean Civilians. 

In that moment, all I could say was, "I don't know, I wasn't there." The North Korean account of the war is much different from any other account than I've ever heard - that's all I can say for sure. It was frustrating not having internet access to fact check as the tour went along - as I'm sure Wikipedia would have some very contrasting ideas.

I was interested to learn from my tour guide that, more often then not, North Koreans who have defected have a hard time adjusting - especially in the South. Imagine having your sense of reality completely shook - being told that throughout the course of your entire life, almost everything was completely fabricated. People will even leave the country, and when they take classes to re-learn history, it can take them months before they stop thinking that it's just the outside world trying to trick them, just like The Great Leader said they would. A woman wrote that, when being reeducated about the Korean War, she thought that the rest of the world was conspiring to hide the truth. It didn't occur to her that it was her country who had lied. 

The idea that we choose (or are given) our own truths was really solidified while in the North. It has made me much more understanding of the civilians in the North, as well as the random and varied people that I cross paths with on a daily basis. Truth can be subjective; based on an individuals own perception. What a person believes is largely based on what they have been told, or the experiences that have lead them to be who and where they are today. 

      

Decisions

A personal journal entry I wrote before officially deciding to visit North Korea:

  

I've gone back and forth on this idea since before even coming to Korea, nearly two years ago. Something deep in my loins is telling me to go. Just go. But, is it more than just wanting to be able to say, "I'VE BEEN TO NORTH KOREA"? Obviously, that factor definitely plays a role in my desire to go... but that's not all that entices me. It's a mysterious damn place, and at this moment only a handful of people can say that they've been there. I'm really freaking curious to "see" what's going on up there, especially after living in Korea for so long. The secretive North has been a common topic, considering it's not so far away from home. How much has the separation of the peninsula affected the culture? Do they speak with a different accent? Is the food the same? How much has it changed the general demeanor and vibes of the people? Would getting a glimpse into the North create a better understanding of the Korea that I've come to know and love? I always question how many authentic interactions I would have on the other side. I know that the whole trip isn't an elaborate set up. But, how many chances to mingle with locals will I get during a 5 day scheduled "to a T" trip? There will definitely be opportunities to get to know the guides. It's a small piece of the population... but it has to have some effect on opening up the minds of a suppressed population, even if it's just a tiny bit. The country, to some extent, seems to have been progressing it's mindset. I have a chance to keep it open, and maybe widen the view a few people have of the world that exists outside. I can help this motion to continue forward. If the people on the inside become more tuned into what's going on behind their walls, that's a good place for change to start. It's not like I would ignore the fact that there are horrible things happening there at the hands of the government, but does refusing to visit change anything? Wouldn't sharing a fraction of my money with the community, exchange interactions (even as minimal as a smile or bow) and the possibility of conversations make more of an impact in the right direction? I've read several accounts with tourists claiming that they, in fact, did have the chance to have authentic interactions. It's possible.

The biggest thing that kept me teeter-tottering between going and not going was the idea of putting my big ole' wad of money straight into the hands of Kim Jong Un.  After fiddling around countless blogs and researching, I concluded that whatever fraction of my money does go "straight" to the hands of the regime is minimal in comparison to the big picture. It's my understanding that the majority of the money will be used to fund the tourism department, which will in turn create more jobs for the population and thus, more opportunities to open the country up a bit more. I even read somewhere that they have opened up a college for tourism.

I've included links to some of the blogs I read that helped me make my decision. If visiting the DPRK is something you are considering, remember that the choice is ultimately yours. Do some research. Read about other people's experiences and their opinions. Make a pros and cons list. 

Sometimes, when making big decisions, I even like to imagine that I've decided one way or another, and then live a few days as if the decision has really been made. How do you feel about it after a few days? Pretend you've booked your tour, start researching what to pack, and imagine yourself carrying out an itinerary in the country. Or, pretend you have officially decided not to go. If pretending isn't your game, just leave whatever it is you need to figure out alone.  Let it marinate for a few days, or a week, before revisiting the topic. Your subconscious is a powerful thing on its own, and being able to return to something can usually offer up some fresh perspectives.

If you're curious about how it's even possible and what it means to travel to North Korea, this is a good overview.

FAQ

I chose to go with Young Pioneer Tours, and would definitely recommend it. 

*Although not the most popular/highest "rated" company, this package was cheaper for essentially the same thing as other, more expensive tours.

Myths you shouldn't believe

Everywhere Once's stance on traveling - 

And their subsequent post to NOT go to North Korea.

Wandering Earl's opinions on travel and human rights - 

on DPRK: 

**Both mentioned on Everywhere Once's blog

This blog asks opinions from several people. 

Once I've written a blog about my experience in the DPRK, I will add a link here. 

Catchin' Up

Leena and I at Daewangam Park near my home in Ulsan, Korea

I have been a busy little bee since my trip to Japan. It seems as though I haven't had a chance to slow down, and I definitely haven't had a chance to blog. Instead of writing an individual blog post for everything I've done these past few months, I decided to sum everything up in one. No need to drag things on, right?

                                                                                                                                                              
I visited the DMZ and got to step into North Korea. As interesting as it was, it was still a tour. A touristy tour. The only really exhilarating part was when we were in the JSA (Joint Security Area). We got to look into the North and see the soldiers staring at each other at the line of separation, step into the conference room, and get a pretty cool history lesson. I would definitely recommend going on the USO tour, it is the only one that allows access to the JSA. Honestly, it made me want to peer deeper into the North. As unrealistic and unmoral as a tour may be, I can dream - can't I?

The Captain of Our Ship

I spent Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving) on a little camping road trip with friends. After spending our day lounging at Gwangalli Beach and tossing a rugby ball around we hit up the jimjilbang for some much deserved soaking, bathing, and scrubbing. We camped on the beach that night in Busan, Korean style. Seolwi (my Korean angel) prepared a dinner complete with BBQ and Doenjang Jjigae, one of my favorite Korean Stews. Waking up to the sounds of waves crashing that next morning was so peaceful. Tranquility at it's finest.

Then we were off to Geoje Island for another round of drinking and beach camping. Despite being cramped in the back seat between two guys, I loved the road tripping portion almost as much as the beaches we visited. Jamming out to music, funny conversations, and Korean rest stops are my idea of a dang good time. We set up camp, did some exploring around the island, and settled down to drink and swim the day away. Seolwi had chicken delivered to the beach and we chowed down while watching the sunset. That evening was quite eventful; there were fireworks, sausages with cheese, and streaking ;)

I visited my Ride or Die in Daegu and we went hiking with Seolwi. Leena, a friend from Vegas, recently moved to a city near mine. Best coincidence of my life. Having a friend from home to share things with is a rare phenomena. Blending my "home" life with this fairy tale that I have been living makes it more real. Plus, she is my favorite person in this world and we have so many adventures ahead of us, I get butterflies in my tummy even typing about it.

I went to Global Gathering in Seoul. Man, I love Seoul. I wouldn't necessarily want to live there, but boy do I enjoy visiting. We ate a South African lunch in Itaewon with Andrea, the token South African, before we headed to Gangnam to do some (not so high end) shopping at Forever 21. Face masks, nail painting, yoga, and tea were in store for us that night in preparation for the festival the next day.

The festival itself was much different from festivals back home or in Europe. Just a big soccer stadium lined with food and drink stands with a big stage in the middle. It did the job well enough though. We were all there for the music anyways. We danced and sang and lost each other and had one hell of a night.